Once a bulk order is delivered, quality problems are expensive to fix. Almost all of them are detectable in a sample beforehand. This checklist covers what to actually test.
1. Confirm the specification on paper
Before touching the fabric, get the stated composition, GSM, roll width and finishing treatments in writing. If the delivered fabric later differs from what was quoted, this is what you refer back to.
2. Check the handle
Feel the fabric. It should match its stated weight — a fabric quoted at 250 GSM that feels flimsy is worth questioning. Look for a consistent surface without rough or thin patches.
3. Hold it to the light
Stretch a section and hold it up. You are checking two things: whether the weave is even, and whether the fabric is more translucent than expected. Uneven weave shows as visible variation in density. This is one of the fastest ways to spot poorly made fabric.
4. Test shrinkage properly
Cut a sample of a known size — 30cm x 30cm is easy to work with. Mark it, wash it the way the finished garment will be washed, dry it the same way, and measure again.
Some shrinkage is normal. What you need to know is how much, so it can be accounted for in cutting. Anything above roughly 3–5% on a garment fabric deserves a conversation with the supplier.
5. Test colourfastness
Two tests, both quick:
- Wash test: wash the sample with a piece of white cloth. If the white picks up colour, the fabric will bleed onto other garments.
- Rub test: rub the sample firmly with a damp white cloth. Colour transfer indicates poor fastness, which shows up as staining on skin and other clothing.
This matters most for dark colours and for uniforms, which are washed together in volume.
6. Check for pilling
Rub the fabric surface against itself firmly for a few seconds. Small balls of fibre forming quickly indicates short-staple yarn, and the finished garment will look worn much sooner than it should.
7. Check the weave under tension
Pull the fabric gently in both directions. It should resist evenly and return to shape. Look for slippage at the yarn intersections, which indicates a loose weave that will distort at seams.
8. Confirm roll width and usable width
These are not always the same. Selvedge edges may be unusable, and some fabrics have flaws concentrated at the edges. Usable width is what determines your actual yield per meter, and therefore your true cost per garment.
9. Ask about batch and dye lot
If you will reorder, ask whether your quantity will come from a single dye lot, and whether the fabric will remain available. Keep a labelled reference swatch from every order. Our guide on uniform fabric explains why this matters most for repeat programmes.
10. Agree what happens if there is a problem
Before the order, establish how faults are handled — what counts as a defect, what the inspection window is, and what the remedy is. A supplier who is comfortable discussing this upfront is usually a supplier worth ordering from.
Quick reference
| Check | What it reveals |
|---|---|
| Handle and weight | Whether the fabric matches its stated GSM |
| Light test | Weave evenness and opacity |
| Wash and measure | Shrinkage percentage |
| White cloth test | Colour bleeding and rub fastness |
| Rub test | Pilling tendency |
| Tension test | Weave stability at seams |
| Usable width | True cost per garment |
Cloth Zones checks every batch for shrinkage, texture and finish before dispatch. If you are sourcing fabric in bulk, you can request samples and a quote here, or read our full wholesale buying guide.